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Grapevine

Chile

Type : Grapevine

 

Earlier this year I had the good fortune to serve as a judge at Chile’s national wine fair where, along with a panel of eight others, I blind-tasted 500 wines over a period of 4 days. Although I had visited the South American country a number of times before, this proved an invaluable opportunity to form a comprehensive assessment of Chile’s wine industry. To say that I came away feeling enthusiastic about the opportunity Chilean wine presents us is a wild understatement. Shocked is more like it. Quite simply, there doesn’t seem a better source for exciting, delicious wine at a reasonable price today anywhere else in the world.
 
As we continue to recover from Recession, “value” remains top of mind for most of us. This thought process, I believe, is here to stay. It also happens to mesh perfectly with our long term thinking since the wine list at Legal Sea Foods has focused on value from its inception. When I taste I am always highly conscious of how a wine compares with others of its type that are available at equivalent price points. It may be hard to believe but for every wine that ends up on our lists, we reject at least 50, not because they aren’t “good” but because what we refer to as the Quality Price relationship isn’t quite good enough. So I was surprised but pleasantly so when I discovered upon returning to the US that several of the wines I judged to be among the best of Chile’s best remained available to bring in at what can only be described as world class bargain prices.
 
We immediately introduced a number of these unknown gems into our program and they have proven so popular that we are now initiating a month long “Focus on Chile” with special culinary offerings, wine tasting flights, wines by the glass features, and winery-hosted dinners. Between Oct. 19 and Nov. 15 we will be presenting seven visiting Chilean winemakers and representatives at educational dinners (see the links below ) to show off the literal cream of the country’s crop and offer attendees a very clear picture of what it is that makes Chile so special. In a “pre-quel” to the promotion, we are also hosting two Chilean winemakers for dinners on Sept. 16 at Paramus NJ and Oct. 5 at the Park Square Cellar in Boston (link to dinners). These are must attend events.
 
What is it about Chile though that enables its wineries to produce great wine at such favorable prices? The climate in most of its regions is idyllic, with brilliant sunshine, moderate heat, and little or no rain during the growing season but plenty of water available for irrigation. This all adds up to abundant quantities of ripe, structured grapes that are harvested in healthy conditions almost always. Unique in the world, Chile’s vines are also primarily planted on their own roots (the country has never suffered the vine scourge Phylloxera and therefore its vintners are not obliged to graft vines onto resistant roots), so it’s easier and less expensive to cultivate premium wine grapes in vineyards there than elsewhere. These lower production costs are reflected in value pricing which, in this economy, has led to much broader based acceptance in the US. Chile is one of the few countries enjoying expanded export growth here during the last few years (surging almost 2 million cases since 2007) and now stands as our 4th most popular source of imported wine.
 
Why aren’t the wines even more popular and better known? Image. Most Americans remain unfamiliar with Chile and don’t understand the story. That’s why we’re inviting you to come in and enjoy the following wines in our restaurants during the feature period month and why we’re inviting Chilean winemakers north to discuss them. Here’s the rundown on what we’ll be serving:
 
Santa Rita Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, 2008: fresh, crisp and lemony, without a sharp edge, but plenty of tart flavor to complement our raw shellfish. Winemaker Cecilia Torres will be conducting the dinner at Paramus NJ on Oct. 21
 
Vina Errazuriz "Wild Ferment" Chardonnnay, Casablanca Valley, 2007: blind tasting winner for Chile’s finest Chardonnay, whole cluster pressed and fermented in barrel with natural yeasts, this is a lovely toast-accented wine with wild mushroom and grilled nut aromas, and a buttery richness but just enough lively apple-like fruit to balance it. Winemaker Francisco Baettig will be conducting dinners in White Plains NY on Oct. 20 and at the Prudential Center in Boston on Oct. 21
 
Cono Sur “Vision" Pinot Noir, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2008: from Chile’s largest producer of Pinot Noir and one of its most eco-conscious wineries, this Pinot is what we’ve been searching for, with brilliant cherry and cinnamon flavors, a velvety texture and a long slightly edgy finish suiting it beautifully for salmon. Winery representative Chris Marshall will be conducting a dinner at Framingham MA on Oct. 19
 
 
Vina Morande “Terrarum Reserva” Carmenere, Maipo Valley, 2007: a fabulous example of Chile’s unique flagship grape variety, this is a smoky, chocolate-accented red wine with dark berry flavors and a touch of sweet spice. Winery representative Bruce Stewart will be conducting a dinner at our Atlanta restaurant on Oct. 21
 
 
 
Casillero del Diablo Shiraz, Central Shiraz, 2007: a superb wine, smooth and silky, with ripe black fruit and just a hint of spice, but minimal tannins. Winery representative Italo Joffre will be conducting dinners at Tyson’s Corner VA on Oct. 26 and at Kendall Square in Cambridge MA on Oct. 27
 
 
 
Vina Falernia Reserva Syrah, Elqui Valley, 2006: hailing from the country’s highest elevation and northernmost vineyards, the still developing Elqui Valley where vines are planted at over 5,000 feet, this Syrah is blueberry and violet scented with a candied chocolate-covered berry flavor. A gentle but rich dark wine with lingering black pepper notes.
 
 
Marques de Casa Concha Merlot, Rapel Valley, 2006: another blind tasting winner (for best Merlot) this long time favorite is supple and succulent with floral plum aromas and a layering of ripe, dark berry fruit. A substantial Merlot, but polished and balanced at the same time. Winery representative Italo Joffre will be conducting dinners at Tyson’s Corner VA on Oct. 26 and at Kendall Square in Cambridge MA on Oct. 27 (link to dinners and to www. conchaytorowines.com)
Santa Rita "Medalla Real" Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, 2006: a big full bodied pure Cabernet with signature black currant fruit and powerful tannins, this wine features bold clove-accented aromas and a chewy, meaty texture; ideal with Tuna. Winemaker Cecilia Torres will be conducting a dinner at Paramus NJ on Oct. 21
 
Emiliana “Coyam,” Colchagua Valley, 2005: this icon wine is a luscious blend composed primarily of Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot and Carmenere grapes that are organically grown. Full and spicy, with black raspberry and chocolate mint accents, this rich, intensely flavored velvety red has a smoky intensity and firm ripe lingering finish.
 
 
As always these wines will be available for purchase and pick up at our Chestnut Hill MA retail market. We hope you’ll come and enjoy them in the restaurant and if you can make time to attend one of our dinners you won’t be sorry.
 
Sincerely,
Sandy Block, MW
 

 
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