Draft Resolution: Harpoon, Legal Sea Foods cook up beer-inspired dishes

Draft Resolution
By Kerry J. Byrne
Wednesday, January 11, 2006

Al Marzi wants to change the way the Boston culinary community thinks about beer. 
 
Like many beer lovers, the Harpoon Brewery brewmaster is often frustrated when he goes out for dinner. The United States may have more breweries than any other country, but when Marzi sits down at a restaurant, he’s typically handed a menu and an extensive wine list. If he asks for a beer, servers often have no idea what’s available. And when they do know, the beer selection is often unimaginative and rarely complements the cuisine.
 

"People are brought up to think about food and wine, and I guess old habits die hard,” said Marzi. But, instead of complaining, he’s working to change that misperception. 
 
Harpoon recently enlisted the aid of Legal Sea Foods executive chef Rich Vellante. Vellante and Marzi sat down in the Harpoon Brewery tap room in South Boston last month and, over an afternoon of beer and oysters, pieced together a beer-inspired dinner that will be served Tuesday in the wine cellar of the Park Square Legal Sea Foods. 
 
Marzi discussed the flavor profile of various beers and beer styles.  And, while sampling the suds, Vellante started thinking about dishes that would go well with each beer. 
 
"Beer has a lot of variety to it and goes well with a lot of different dishes, in some cases better than wine,” said Vellante. 
 
Before long, the duo had assembled a five-course menu of dishes that complement, contrast with and even incorporate various beers: short ribs braised in dark, malty Harpoon Hibernian Ale; orecchiette with hot Italian sausage and broccoli raab, served with robust, aromatic Harpoon India Pale Ale; and pumpkin cheesecake paired with cinnamon- and nutmeg-flavored Harpoon Winter Warmer. 
 
"Beer is perfect with a lot of comfort foods where wine doesn’t always work,” said Vellante. 
 
Marzi is more adamant: ”There are a lot of dishes that go great with wine. But there are more that go great with beer.”

HARPOON HIBERNIAN ALE SHORT RIBS

2 1/2 lbs. of short ribs

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 T. vegetable oil

2 c. Spanish onion, diced

1 c. Harpoon Hibernian Ale

1 c. chicken stock

1 c. mushrooms

1 c. chopped tomatoes

3 sprigs fresh thyme

2 bay leaves

1/4 c. Dijon mustard

Liberally salt and pepper the short ribs and sear about 4 minutes each side in hot oil in an ovenproof pan or pot. Once meat is browned remove and set aside. Add onions to the pan and lightly brown. Add beer, stock, mushrooms, tomatoes, thyme and bay leaves and bring to a simmer. Add short ribs, cover and place in 325-degree oven for about 2 hours. Once ribs are fork-tender, remove cover and brush ribs with mustard and broil until brown.  Serve with wide noodles.  Serves 4 to 6.

2 T. vegetable oil

3 c. Spanish onion, diced

2 T. garlic, minced

2 stalks celery, diced

6 oz. tomato paste

1/4 t. cayenne pepper

1/4 c. chili powder

1 t. ground cumin

12 oz. crushed tomatoes

1 bay leaf

1/2 t. oregano

1 green bell pepper, diced

12 oz. Harpoon IPA

24 oz. canned kidney beans, drained and washed

1 qt. clam broth or fish stock

1 qt. chopped clams

1 c. jack cheese, shredded

1 scallion, sliced

Heat oil in a large pot.  Add onions, garlic and celery and cook over medium heat until soft.  Add tomato paste, cayenne, chili powder and cumin and cook for 3-5 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add crushed tomatoes, bay leaf, oregano and green pepper.  Cook for 5 minutes.  Add beer, kidney beans, clam broth or fish stock and finish with clams.  Simmer for 5-10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.  Portion into six bowls.  Top each with approximately 2 T. of shredded jack cheese and 3 rings of sliced scallion.  Serves 6.