Legally Sublime

“Legally Sublime”

By Diane Deans

            LegalSea Foods at CityPlace in West Palm Beach is all about warm woods and inviting aromas, a hint of the sea, a splash of sunshine…and that’s just the food.  No surprise – Legal Sea Foods’ emphasis is on fish – the freshest, best-quality fish and shellfish as safe and fresh as possible.  This family-owned business from Boston enjoys an international reputation for serving only the freshest, best-quality fish and shellfish at its 31 restaurants, which it processes ay its own state-of-the-art plant.

            The Berkowitz family enterprise was founded by Roger Berkowitz’s grandfather in 1904 as a neighboring grocery store, the Legal Cash Market, in Inman Square in Cambridge, Mass.  His father opened a fish restaurant there in 1968, and it quickly grew into a chain that is still growing.

            Our dinner there the other evening evolved into a feast.  Seated at the large windows overlooking CityPlace, our waitress, Claire, introduced herself, and courteously gave us a moment to consider our drinks – we chose an Italian Pinot Grigio, which arrived perfectly chilled in a large glass.  We sipped as Claire explained the specials, brought us wonderfully warm crusty rolls and butter, and left us to ponder the extensive menu. The large menu even has a special celiac menu and diabetic selections.

            Claire took lots of time to explain the menu.  Her extensive training was showcased by her suggestions as she went over the evening choices and explained the preparation.  We both raised eyebrows at each other as she walked away; we haven’t had such excellent attention and detailed wait service since Hector was a pup.  We deliberately dined anonymously which made the splendid service even better!  And the managers visited our table during the meal to ask if everything was to our satisfaction.  Our mouths were always full, so we just nodded enthusiastically.

            The Key West Conch Chowder was spicy, but the kitchen had splashed too much sherry into the soup for my taste; it would have been better on the side.  The Lobster Bisque was full of meaty chunks and creamy.  The Shrimp Cocktail was a true oxymoron: five jumbo shrimp served on ice, sweet and tender, with a zingy cocktail sauce.  Delicious!  The best I ever had.

            We shared the hot Lump Crabmeat dip, filled with crab, horseradish, cheddar and cream cheese, served with seafood chips, and used a spoon to scoop up every bit of it.  Bob asked Claire what was in the chips.  She brought over their cookbook, turned to the recipe and explained the rice and seafood mixture that results in a light as air, flavorful chip.  She left the book for us to look over; we decided to buy it, and Claire offered to take it to the kitchen for the chef to sign.

            We chose entrees from their Surf, Turf, and Beyond selections.  Bo opted for the traditional Surf & Turf – a petite filet mignon and whole lobster, and I selected the Wood Grilled Chef’s assortment of wild salmon, haddock, and tuna, accompanied by scallops and shrimp.  Claire quickly came to crack the lobster for Bob, a much-appreciated gesture, while I savored the woodsy flavor of my fish.  Bob’s side was a portabella mushroom stuffed with onions, shrimp and cheese: huge, dripping with juice and terrific.  I had rice pilaf, done just right.

            Claire wrapped up what we couldn’t finish in a snazzy Legal Sea Foods shopping bag with our cookbook.  Our shared dessert was the flourless chocolate cake with raspberry filling.  Heavenly.  Their classic dessert is ice cream bonbons; that’s for the next visit.  We’ll ask for Claire’s table.

            Reservations are accepted.  Smoking is permitted on the outside patio.  Private meeting room.  Corporate gifts.  And the wide-ranging reasonably prices wine list is exceptional.

            Location: CityPlace, 550 South Rosemary Ave., WestPalm Beach, FL33401.  Phone (561) 838-9000.

Southern Exposure