Oregon Wines

Compared to California, Oregon produces only a trickle of wine, but the Pacific Northwest state has a stellar reputation based on nearly ideal conditions in its Willamette Valley for ripening the ultra-fashionable Pinot Noir grape. Oregon’s climate is comparable to Burgundy’s in crucial ways: chilly spring weather with long sunny moderately warm summer days. The chief difference is that the Willamette experiences rain less frequently during the summer and especially during the crucial month of September, making harvests there a bit more predictable than is the norm in France.

Pinot Noir accounts for almost half of the state’s total wine production, with most of the rest being Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. What has catapulted quality forward in the last few decades is the planting of French “Dijon” clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which are producing less acidic, softer-textured wines with subtle aromas and concentrated fruit flavors. Production techniques tend to be extremely “hands off” as is the mode in Burgundy too. While Oregon has been well-recognized as a source of understated beautifully layered Pinot Noirs of flavor and nuance for decades, however, the quality of the Chardonnays has only recently begun to filter out to the rest of the world.

We have been serving more Oregon wines lately in recognition of this emerging quality trend. To highlight their amazing synergies with our food, we have selected the artisanal Bethel Heights Vineyard, a small family-owned producer based in the Willamette’s Eola-Amity Hills, to present their wines at a dinner we’re hosting at the Park Square Boston Wine Cellar on August 18th. Winemaker Ben Casteel will be in attendance to discuss the following:

Bethel Heights “Estate” Pinot Blanc, 2009: This underappreciated grape does extremely well in Oregon; this one is fresh, and creamy in texture,  with soft mellow peachy fruit flavors and a hint of spice, providing a good backdrop to light delicate seafood.

Bethel Heights Pinot Gris, 2009: The state’s signature and most widely planted white grape variety, Pinot Gris can be a bit over the top in sweetness, but this one is Alsatian in style: crisp,  with pear, apple and melon flavors and a hint of white flowers.

Bethel Heights “Estate Grown” Chardonnay, 2009: Ringer for a pedigreed White Burgundy, and made according to the same protocols, this wine is bone dry and rich with a buttery, smooth, tart apple-like flavor.

Bethel Heights Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008. The 2008 vintage was something extra special for Pinot Noir in Oregon: due to an extra long growing season, the Pinots are unusually concentrated. This wine is beautifully balanced, with ripe cherry fruit, delicate spiciness and moderate tannins.

Bethel Heights “Estate Grown” Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, 2008. The Eola-Amity Hills is noted for producing Pinots with a bit more weight and dark stone fruit characteristics than elsewhere in the Willamette and this certainly fits the bill. Salmon anyone?

Bethel Heights “Casteel Reserve” Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2007. A darker, richer wine,  with a higher percentage of new oak, but extremely well proportioned, with intense raspberry and mocha spice flavors.

Bethel Heights “Southeast Block” Estate Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills, 2008. This wine is an outstanding selection from a small block on the family estate; it’s a bit more crisp and structured, with real Burgundian restraint, and a slightly tart edge of minerality accenting the red berry flavors.

All of these wines are very moderate in alcohol, another trend we applaud, as it especially enhances their compatibility with food. If you haven’t experienced what Oregon is capable of, and you’re able to attend, this will be a dinner that you won’t want to miss. And if you’re too far away to be able to enjoy these wines at Park Square, you should definitely check out our wine lists for the new selections from Oregon, as I’m sure you’ll find them extremely seafood-friendly.

Sincerely,
Sandy Block, Master of Wine