Pure Chardonnay

           As the biggest most dominating presence in the world of wine for seemingly ever, Chardonnay takes a lot of heat. Nothing this popular can remain fashionable in perpetuity, so there are writers, sommeliers and many in the wine trade who now almost ritually bash the grape. The reasons? Take your pick: overly alcoholic, overly ripe, not enough flavor, no finesse, impossible with food and the most common offense cited, too much oak. The truth is that there are, and always have been, caricature Chardonnays on the market that, like someone wearing a bit too much perfume or cologne, call excessive attention to themselves. But dismissing Chardonnay as the great evil because of these garish examples means you’ll be missing out on a lot of potentially memorable wines.

 

            As a Chardonnay enthusiast I always answer blanket objections with the question: “which Chardonnays don’t you like?” Because the grape is actually such a chameleon I know that, regardless of the response, I will be able to find one that satisfies virtually everyone. What it comes down to mostly is dislike for oak. Chardonnay that’s never exposed to wood, or to much oxygen, feels different on your palate and functions differently with food than one that is barrel-fermented and aged. If you like Pinot Grigio, if you like Sauvignon Blanc, trust me, there is a Chardonnay for you.

 

            A number of years ago we started calling these un-oaked wines “Pure Chardonnay” on our list, to indicate that you would be tasting untouched, unadulterated, flavors, without the overlay of vanilla, toast or caramel. The wines that are handled in this manner tend to be transparent, reflecting the soil and climate conditions in which the grapes are grown. Although I also love well balanced Chardonnays that have spent time maturing in barrels, I find that this is the season I gravitate more toward the “pure” examples. They tend to be delicate and refreshing and match up better with the lighter summer time fare. The following are my current picks, in a variety of flavor styles, and for those of you living anywhere near our Chestnut Hill MA location, they’re all available there at retail for moderate prices given their quality level.

 

            Trevor Jones “Virgin” Chardonnay, Southeast Australia. “Virgin” is a code word for un-oaked. The Aussies started labeling their wines to give you an indication of wood treatment or not several years ago, and Trevor Jones was one of the first to market a wine of this quality under that designation. It’s creamy and apple-like with a hint of white peaches. The overall feel of this wine is somewhat analogous to Pinot Blanc or good Pinot Grigio. It’s been aged on the yeast, which imparts a softness that, to my palate, is ideal with fresh Scallops.

 

            Chehalem “Inox” Chardonnay, Willamette Valley Oregon. Oregon is one of the great antidotes to cure rabid Chardonnay-aversion. Since it’s a well kept secret on the East Coast that the state even makes Chardonnay, this is a wine that will definitely have some cachet when you bring it out. Chehalem rarely misses with any of their wines and this Inox (the French slang term for raising a wine in stainless steel without air exposure) is precise and crisp with some wild flower aromas and a lingering citrus finish. It’s a fantastic salad wine, especially complementing a plate of chilled crab or lobster.

 

            Jean-Marie Brocard, Domaine Ste. Claire, Chablis. So this unoaked or pure idea is actually nothing new, they’ve been doing it for decades in the village of Chablis. This estate makes classic, cool climate Chardonnay: minerally, lemon-accented, very tart and edgy. It’s a thrilling counterpoint for any pure shellfish dish, from raw Kumamotos to steamed lobster. Think of this as the lemon you would squeeze on the seafood. It’s a cinch to provide enough drama for any Sauvignon Blanc-loving Chardonnay basher in your circle. Just don’t tell them what it is until after they’ve tasted it. And even then, because it’s French, the word “Chardonnay” never appears on the label.

 

Enjoy!

 

Sandy Block, Master of Wine