Riesling

As anyone who knows me will attest I have been raving mad about Riesling for a long time. Particularly in warm weather, this is the wine I advocate drinking more so than any other. Especially with food. Why? Riesling’s phenomenal for its intriguing spring-like aroma and flavor, its dazzling fruit acidity and the ease with which each sip leaves your palate refreshed for the next bite. So I’m very excited about this great New Age of Riesling we all appear to be embarking upon. After being misunderstood, abused and shunned as “too sweet” by wine snobs everywhere, there’s been a sudden and amazing shift in popular opinion. It’s not quite the white grape version of Sideways, but those of us who enjoy a glass or a bottle no longer have to look around the dining room to make sure no one is listening while we whisper our order to the waiter.

 

Of course, there are Rieslings and then there are Rieslings. The analogy with Pinot Noir is actually apt in that a Riesling reflects its growing conditions and climate more so than most other grapes. For this reason the good ones all taste crucially different and unique based on origin. The grape does need rocky soils and a long, cool ripening cycle for its signature apple, floral, and peach aromas to emerge in all of their jewel-like complexity. Grow Riesling where it’s too warm, or where the earth is abundant in nutrients and it just tastes flat and syrupy. 

 

Since sugar is such a strong flavor and some Rieslings have more of it than others to balance their crisp acids, this is generally not a wine you can order without having it described. To me the driest quality Rieslings (traditionally from Alsace, but also now from Australia, and from Germany if labeled “Trocken,” “Halb-Trocken” or “Classic”; I know, it’s confusing) carry on an exciting dialogue with the widest variety of fish and seafood dishes. Their bracing acidity elevates the flavor of any dish prepared in rich, creamy sauces. There’s an uncanny harmony with Lobster or Crab, cooked simply or with spicy accompaniments. And they are unbeatable with dishes that have fruit influences incorporated into the preparation (salads, fish, or poultry with apples, peaches or citrus). What’s not often understood is how good a match dry Riesling is with raw clams or oysters, connecting beautifully to the brininess and salt. A textbook example of this style is the 2006 Knappstein “Hand Picked” Riesling from Australia’s Clare Valley. It’s a variation on the Riesling theme that has made this region famous: bracingly dry, with perfumed lime and granny smith apple flavors, it shows a trace of mineral and earth accents. Relatively full bodied, with a long tart finish, it’s an outstanding match for fried fish dishes as well.

 

Completely different is the amazingly delicious 2006 Craggy Range “Fletcher Family Farms” Riesling from New Zealand’s Marlborough District. There’s not much Riesling planted in this clean green land and the wine makers are still defining their signature style, but this beauty is crafted by Master of Wine Steve Smith to retain a bit of balancing sugar. Hand harvested and whole bunch pressed, it’s soft and subtly understated with a creamy, sensual texture. The first sip hits you with waves of delicious fruit: peach, nectarine, and crisp Meyer lemon. Chill it down and enjoy with Scallops, sautéed Shrimp and pasta, or with smoked trout or salmon. Sweeter, and lighter in body, the 2007 Dr. Fischer Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Qbafrom the Saar in Germany, shows why people are so excited about this promising vintage. It’s very delicate and fruity, with tarragon and wildflower aromatics and a classically spicy sweet apple flavor that will balance curries and other hot sauces to perfection. All you have to do is taste each of these wines to know they are absolute winners, and the amazing fact is their ability to age. Five years, ten? I’ve had Rieslings of this caliber decades afterwards, and they are still going strong.

 

Enjoy!