South Africa

It’s amazing how quickly reputations change in the world of wine. Argentina, which had no image for quality a decade ago, has emerged as one of our most fashionable import sources. Chile, which was shunned by aficionados as a producer of cheap bulk wine, has wowed us recently with the quality of its varietals.

At Legal Sea Foods we like to stay ahead of the curve and highlight emerging regions that occupy what I call the sweet spot: after they’ve made dramatic quality improvements but before the rest of the market recognizes it. South Africa’s time has come. Despite fits and starts in the period right after the boycott ended with the fall of Apartheid, the last few years have seen quality leap forward. In the blind tastings we conduct biannually to select our wine list, South African wines began to make an impression three years ago and we have followed the country closely ever since.

 

South Africa’s wine tradition goes back to the 17^th Century. The style of the wines we see most frequently is more European than Californian: drier, with higher levels of minerality and earthiness, less forward ripe fruit. We feel they are eminently suited to complement our fresh seafood. For that reason are we devoting the month of November to spotlighting a number of South African wines by the glass, in flights, and at visiting winemaker dinners. What follows is a description of the individual selections you will find at most of our restaurants, and why we think they’re so special.

 

We start with two Chenin Blancs. Chenin is a personal favorite of mine, often the first wine I check in assessing a restaurant’s wine list. Why? Its crisp, minerally fruit, tart acidity and refreshing flavor profile are ideal starters or accompaniments to fish. The grape is chameleon; it can make a light, dry, lively wine, one that is semi-sweet, or a luscious dessert nectar. South Africa does a better job with it than any other country, outside of its Loire Valley French homeland. We are featuring Raats Family “Original” Chenin Blanc, 2010, which is an ideal starter. Subtly flavored with crisp apple, delicate pear and a hint of peach pit, it’s a cold-fermented refresher that complements salads and light fish courses. A Chenin with the character of a rich, barrel-fermented Chardonnay, the DeMorgenzon 2009 from Stellenbosch, is widely considered the country’s finest example of this varietal. It’s luscious and toasty, with a spicy dry lemon zest flavor. It’s also an ideal full bodied match for grilled swordfish or steamed lobster.

 

While Chenin Blanc is South Africa’s most widely planted white grape, the wine that has attracted most attention in the US so far is Sauvignon Blanc. Top quality examples, such as the Buitenverwachting   (or “BAY-tin ver-VOCK-ting”) 2010 from Constantia, are bone dry, lean and crisp, with less tropical fruit than you encounter typically in New Zealand. The name means “beyond expectation” and if you like the flavors of fresh grapefruit, this is the wine for you. With a light touch of lime, it complements everything from raw shellfish to medium bodied white fish, such as Mahi and Grouper. In fact, any dish you’d like to squeeze a lemon over.

 

Rounding out the white category, De Morgenzon “DMZ” Chardonnay, from the Western Cape, is a very delicate, softer expression, with a creamy texture, delicate apple notes and just a kiss of honeyed toast. It’s a Chardonnay that would definitely appeal to the Pinot Grigio drinker as well. “De Morgenzon” means "the morning sun," and you can taste the gentle ripeness in this wine which we are also pouring by the glass.

One of the country’s most prized wineries over the years has been Mulderbosch, and its Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, 2010 is delightfully fresh and lively. With the aroma of ripe wild strawberry and just a touch of spice, it provides a red wine flavor experience without any of the tannins. Great with salads.

 

Pinotage is South Africa’s signature red; it was actually created in the country in the 1920’s as a crossing of Pinot Noir and a Rhone grape, Cinsault. We are offering two: the Ken Forrester “Petit” Pinotage, Stellenbosch, 2010, which is brimming with hints of raspberry, spicy cherry and plum, finishing with delicate smoky nuances reminiscent of Pinot Noir; and the Kanonkop 2009, also from Stellenbosch, which Is much fuller, with tobacco and earthy accents that make it an ideal selection for a Tuna Steak. Kanonkop is widely renowned as the country’s finest Pinotage. In addition, we are presenting a brilliantly concentrated “Meritage style” red, the Rustenberg “R.M. Nicholson,” 2009 from Stellenbosch. With ripe berry, chocolate, oak spice and a smooth but very concentrated and robust mouth feel , this wine is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec that will satisfy the lover of Bordeaux or California Cabernet, but at a much better price/value ratio. 

 

Finally, we are also offering South Africa’s most famous and historically renowned wine, an incredibly delicious ambrosia made by Klein (pronounced “Klayne”) Constantia, the “Vin de Constance,” 2006. With a rich buttery texture and flavors of honey, apricots and crème brulée, this beautifully balanced dessert wine is made exclusively from the Muscat grape. It’s a dessert in and of itself and would complement our Key Lime Pie to perfection.

 

As always, these wines will be available for purchase and pick up at our Chestnut Hill MA retail market. We hope you’ll come and explore the bounty of South Africa this month, enjoy a tasting flight (featuring the Raats Family Chenin, the Buitenverwachting and the DeMorgenzon “DMZ”), make a new bottle discovery, or try a glass of luscious world class dessert wine. We also guarantee: if you can attend one of our dinners you won’t be sorry.

 

Sincerely,

Sandy Block, MW