South American Value Wines

Lately we have been spending a lot of time tasting, evaluating and buying wine from Argentina and Chile because these two South American countries offer some of the most appealing flavors in the world today at what we would consider deep value pricing. They fit right in with our wine list concept. Based on recently released trade figures, it appears that the American public at large must agree.

 

Interestingly, despite the recession, US consumers continue to enjoy wine at the same rate as in the recent past, although there is a discernible shift towards less pricy options. As with other consumer products everyone has been hunting for gems that are not overhyped. But while most countries exported less wine here in 2008, Argentina and Chile are major exceptions to this trend. Perceived value is the dominant driver for their growth. So as we refresh our wine list offerings this month we continue to augment South America. 

 

Argentina in particular has experienced a dramatic upsurge in popularity (up over 30% year over year nationally), based largely on excitement the country’s signature Malbec grape has generated as a spicier alternative to Merlot. Vineyards in the Andes Mountains state of Mendoza are situated higher than any other on the planet; the brilliant luminosity at 4,000 to 5,000 feet elevations helps transform what is a somewhat pedestrian Bordeaux grape into a budding superstar. Our blind tastings over the past several years confirm that even at moderate prices standards of quality for Mendoza Malbec remains uniformly high. We have been particularly impressed with the following standout:

 

Tomero Malbec, Mendoza, 2006  Slightly spicy, with an herb, mushroom and root vegetable- accented aroma, this offers greater than expected complexity without sacrificing Malbec’s characteristically lush creaminess and appealing chocolate notes. Tomero’s sweet red fruit jamminess and cocoa-like finish make it ideal just for sipping or to complement meatier fish dishes, perhaps those served with a Shandong sauce.

 

But just as Sauvignon Blanc was the vehicle that allowed us to discover other great New Zealand wines, Malbec’s popularity has helped highlight what else Argentina offers. Bonarda, a rustic, somewhat earthy red grape originally from northwestern Italy, produces a delightful medium intensity red (try the La Posta “Estela Armando Vineyard” 2006, with its hot spicy red berry fruit accents). Argentina’s flagship white variety, Torrontes, has attracted attention as well. One of the country’s top winemakers, Susana Balbo, fashions something wondrous from it:

Crios de Susana Balbo, Torrontes, 2008. A smooth, ripe, round textured wine with floral yeasty aromas and flavors of golden raisins, ripe apple and mineral, this is a great accompaniment for shrimp or scallops.

 

Chile may represent even better value than Argentina, particularly for its red wines, the most distinctive of which is the flagship Carmenere which, like Malbec, hails from Bordeaux. Planted mostly on its own roots, Chilean Carmenere thrives south of Santiago in the Rapel and Colchagua Valleys, sheltered zones sitting in the shadows of the Andes.

Of particular note at bargain pricing is the Santa Carolina Reserva:

Santa Carolina Reserva Carmenere, Rapel Valley, 2007. Juicy and fragrant, with clove, dark red berry and a hint of smoked bacon aromas, this wine gives a somewhat sweet impression of cooked fruit. Silky on the palate it finishes with a hint of mocha.

 

There are also some amazing Meritage style blends originating in Chile. Produced at South America’s largest organic vineyard, the Emiliana Coyam is made by one of the continent’s leading enologists, Alvaro Espinosa. The 2005 is particularly striking:

Emiliana “Coyam,” Colchagua Valley, 2005. Full bodied and spicy, with black pepper, raspberry and chocolate mint accents, this rich, intensely flavored velvety red has a smoky intensity and firm ripe lingering finish

 

Finally the Sauvignon Blancs grown in Chile’s recently planted cool northern coastal valleys, such as Casablanca and Santa Antonio, offering a delicious alternative to the Marlborough style: less overtly tropical, leaner and bit less dramatically grapefruit-like. My favorite is a single vineyard wine from Casa Marin:

Casa Marin “Les Cipreses” Sauvignon Blanc, San Antonio, 2008. Subtle and understated with chalky, mineral aromas and a delicate lemon lime flavor, this medium-bodied charmer has a sleek stylishness that suits it well to Dover Sole or other milder seafood preparations.

 

There are also some outstanding Pinot Noirs, Syrahs and Cabernets on deck from South America, so come visit Legal Sea Foods this month as we incorporate these value gems into our program!