Spanish Revolution

After years of being underground favorites, Spanish wine has finally emerged into the spotlight of fashion. The main reason it’s starting to pop up everywhere is because of how startlingly good even many of the extreme bargain wines taste. Plus they’re ideal with food. So even though few people in the US are on a first name basis with the country’s regions or grape varieties, we keep buying more from Spain every year to the point that it now ranks as our 4^th most popular source of imported wine (behind Italy, France and Australia). Unlike our other major trading partners, however, Spanish wine grew at a pace of 7% during 2008, bucking an otherwise pronounced downtrend.

 

If there’s one influential figure who has been ahead of his time, almost single handedly generating excitement before anyone here cared about Spain’s quality wine revolution, it’s Jorge Ordonez, Massachusetts based importer who’s been at it for two decades. As a recent tasting proved once again, his hand picked selections are stellar across the board, regardless of how unknown their origins remain. We are honored to be featuring Senor Ordonez at a dinner he is hosting at our Boston Park Square Wine Cellar on June 2 (Spanish Wine Dinner) where some of the following favorites will be served. Each is a real winner in the deep value category. While not easy to remember, once you try them they’ll be tough to forget. (note: to MA residents, each is available for retail purchase at our Chestnut Hill market) 

 

Martin Codax Albarino, Rias Baixas, 2007 : This crisp, citrusy white from Galicia on the country’s Atlantic Coast is generally considered Spain’s most prestigious white. Fresh and unoaked, it’s a delightful grapefruit-accented shellfish partner. (Note: this is not an Ordonez selection).

 

Monte Oton, Campo de Borja, 2007. If you crave Garnacha (in France it’s known as Grenache) as much as I do, this region in Aragon, a mountainous zone just south of the French border, may be the best kept secret in the world. Medium-bodied and soft textured, this hand picked Ordonez red is long on charm and pure cherry-like character. A “joven” (unoaked) wine that is juicy, balanced and mineral-accented you may enjoy it a bit cool to pump up the refreshment potential or savor it at room temp with some salty appetizers.

 

Paso a Paso Tinto, La Mancha, 2007. La Mancha is the world’s largest officially demarcated wine region, a vast sun drenched plain that occupies the center of Spain. Because the bulk of its production is not something you’d want to drink (trust me!) there are amazing values to be had, like this pure Tempranillo (the fashionista grape of Rioja) produced from 40 year old vines grown at high elevations. Opaque in color, with a licorice and wild black raspberry aroma, it’s a rich tasting beauty that will have you licking your lips with pleasure. A lingering coffee mocha flavor accents the berry fruit making this an ideal match for rare grilled tuna.

 

Finca Sandoval, Manchuela, 2006. Yes Spain makes amazing Syrah! Not inexpensive, this mountain grown Ordonez selection is world class, aged in French oak, unfiltered and worthy of a decade’s development in the cellar, if you’ve got the patience. Ripe and intense with a velvety mouth feel, this spicy earth-accented dark berry flavored red is brilliant with any savory red meat.

 

Jorge Ordonez “Victoria” Malaga. What’s for dessert? Who needs food when you have this incredible nectar Jorge has blended himself from old vines in his native region of Andalusia on Spain’s southernmost coast? Luscious as honey, with aromas of peach, wild flower and caramel, the Victoria (named after Ordonez’ sister) is a creamy mouthful that would complement flan to perfection.

 

Sandy Block, Master of Wine