Wines of Alsace

Alsace is the region in France’s extreme northeastern corner that remains one of the best kept secrets in the world of gastronomy. It not only has an incomparable cuisine (there are more Michelin 3 stars in Strasbourg than anywhere other than Paris), but the wines are often amazing. I’m sure I drink more white wine from Alsace than anywhere else, other than perhaps the Loire Valley, yet on the whole we Americans only import less than 2% of the region’s total production. The wines should be easy to purchase, since Alsace is France’s only AOC zone that identifies its wine bottles the same way we do, displaying the grape variety name prominently on the label.

 

What makes Alsatian wine special? With its historic vineyards sheltered behind the massive rain shadow of the Vosges Mountains, Alsace enjoys a cool, arid, but sunny climate. Since harvesting is able to take place quite late in the season, usually in mid autumn, the region’s dry, predominantly white wines tend to unfold in the glass with vivid aromatic complexity. One sip and the flavors are inspirational: brilliantly perfumed with mineral accents that complement seafood to perfection. Alsace Pinot Blanc tends to be supple and delicate, a stylish starter to a meal or accompaniment for light appetizers; the Pinot Gris is round and slightly smoky, with honeyed but crisp fruit flavors; Gewurztraminer has the creamiest, most exotically floral, spice-laden flavors; while Riesling is most often authentically dry and pure, its thrilling citrus and apple-like accents harmonizing with the widest array of dishes.

 

Compounding the mystery of why they remain so unfamiliar to US wine lovers, Alsace whites are not only easy to buy, due to the varietal focus, they are also produced in a style that has become very popular today among critics and consumers: unoaked wines that reflect clear “terroir” influences more so than winemaking wizardry. They fit right into the contemporary vogue for assertive flavor; a glass of Alsatian white wine seldom fades anonymously into the background. Among the region’s finest producers many are still small scale family operations that have been working in the same artisanal style for centuries. These small domaines tend to be strongly involved in organic and biodynamic farming techniques designed to evoke the purest, most natural grape flavors in their wines. Perhaps surprisingly they are also among the world’s most ageable whites: top quality Riesling, in particular, has a lifespan of decades rather than years. And their final point of distinction: even most of those produced in miniscule quantities are quite affordable and represent great value for the quality level they represent.

 

For all of these reasons we are focusing on Alsace in many of our restaurants during the month of September. I will be conducting three dinners (at our Framingham MA, White Plains NY and Tysons Corner VA restaurants; check the attached menus) and we will be offering special wine tasting flights and menu offerings throughout the month. At Legal, the house of Trimbach has been synonymous with Alsace for a long time. A 12^th generation producer and owner of 75 acres, they make a magnificent quality 2004 Reserve Pinot Gris, very pear-like in aroma, with floral essences, luscious rich textures and spicy finish that proprietor Jean Trimbach has described to me as “a perfect alternative to Chardonnay.” Always a mainstay, it’s particularly outstanding in this vintage. Another top family owned producer, the house of Hugel, produces a dreamy 2006 Gewurztraminer (not the easiest grape to tame) that shows the flavor intensity, florality and hopped up spiciness of this variety to perfection. Gewurztraminer is not the easiest grape to warm up to, but if you are a fan, you have to try this one: with intriguing aromas of golden raisin, white pepper and smoke, it’s got an unctuous texture and luscious anise spice undertones. The Alsace aperitif par excellence is Pinot Blanc, which is the least flashy of the region’s major grapes, but just a sensuous if understated delight when done properly. One of my recent favorites is Lucien Albrecht, 2006, which fulfills the first requirement of the grape, that it be soft and easy-drinking, with a creamy roundness and just a whisper of sweet spice in the finish. It’s one of those every occasion wines that will not clash with very many food flavors. Riesling holds a special place in the pantheon of Alsace grapes. Planted in about 20% of the acreage, the same proportion as it is in Germany, it’s the go-to grape wherever it will ripen. Alsace tends to produce the wine in a bone dry style, however. It’s the classic alternative for a Sauvignon Blanc drinker who wants to branch out, although the style is always gentler. Two are currently at the top of my list for value and flavor interest: 1) famed biodynamic producer Marc Kreydenweiss’ “Andlau” Riesling 2005, which shows classic smoky “petrol”, earthy scents along with very focused and precise tart, lemony, crisp apple fruit flavors; and 2) Domaine Sipp Mack’s, Grand Cru “Osterberg,” Riesling, 2000, from one of the 51 officially designated top vineyards in the region, expressing mature cooked apple and pear aromas, with undertones of nectarine, baking spices and a minerally edge on the finish. While not quite as easy to buy or order than big name Chardonnay, any one of these un-oaked artisan production wines are intriguing accompaniments to a multitude of fish dishes, with their dry earthy essences, fruit aromas and lingering flavors. Try them!

 

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