Wines of Alsace

There’s a special affinity between the wines of Alsace and seafood that I’m reminded of every time I dine at one of our restaurants; looking at the list, one of the first regions that draws my attention is this Northeastern French zone that is culturally distinct from any other in the world. Alsace has a long history as a fine wine region, but is confusing to many of us because it is French, while the names of the people are Germanic. The bottles are also the elongated flutes used across the border in Germany. The wines, however, should be among the easiest of France to choose, since Alsace is France’s only AOC zone that displays grape variety names on the label.

What makes Alsace wine special? First, its vineyards are sheltered behind the massive rain shadow of the Vosges Mountains, meaning that Alsace enjoys a cool, very dry, but sunny climate. Harvesting takes place very late in the season, usually in mid autumn, which enhances the vivid aromatic complexity of the region’s dry, predominantly white wines. The flavors are inspirational: brilliantly perfumed with mineral accents that complement seafood to perfection.

Among the grape varieties, Pinot Blanc tends to be supple and delicate, a stylish starter to a meal or accompaniment for light appetizers. Pinot Gris is round and slightly smoky, with honeyed but crisp apple and pear flavors. Gewurztraminer has the creamiest, most exotically floral, rich spice-laden flavors, while Riesling is most often authentically dry and pure. Its thrilling citrus and apple-like accents harmonize with the widest array of dishes.

The style in which virtually all Alsace whites are made is quite popular today: unoaked, crisply acidic, aromatic and reflective of natural “terroir” influence more so than winemaking wizardry. Among the region’s finest producers, many are still small scale family operations that have been working in the same artisanal style for centuries. These “hands on” domains tend to be strongly involved in sustainable, organic and biodynamic farming techniques designed to evoke the purest grape flavors in their wines. Interestingly, they are also among the world’s most age worthy whites. Top quality Riesling, in particular, has a lifespan of decades rather than years. And their final point of distinction: even most of those produced in miniscule quantities represent great value for the quality level they represent.

For all of these reasons, we are focusing on Alsace as a company during the month of June. I will be conducting three dinners (at our Framingham MA, Braintree MA and Boston MA Park Square restaurants) and we will be offering special wine tasting flights and menus throughout the month.  The selections below are being featured in many of our Massachusetts restaurants, and some selections may be different in restaurants in other states.  At Legal, the house of Trimbach has been synonymous with Alsace for a long time. A 12th generation producer and owner of 75 acres, Trimbach makes a magnificent quality 2007 Reserve Pinot Gris, very pear-like in aroma, with floral essences, luscious rich textures and spicy finish that proprietor Jean Trimbach has described to me as “a perfect alternative to Chardonnay.” Always a mainstay, it’s particularly outstanding in this vintage. Another top family owned producer, the house of Hugel, produces a mellow and floral scented 2009 Gentil that is a great aperitif and will bring out the delicate flavors of seafood to perfection. Rolly Gassmann is a venerable organic-oriented estate that produces a wonderful 2004 Gewurztraminer (not the easiest grape to tame) that shows the flavor intensity, florality and richly perfumed spiciness of this variety to perfection. If you are a fan, you have to try this one; with intriguing aromas of golden raisin, white pepper and lychee, it’s got an unctuous texture and luscious anise-like undertones. The Alsace aperitif par excellence is Pinot Blanc, which is the least flashy of the region’s major grapes, but just a sensuous if understated delight when done properly. When made into a sparkling wine, it is called Cremant d’Alsace; one of my recent favorites is Lucien Albrecht Brut, which is bone dry, crisp and minerally. As a still wine, Pinot Blanc is mild and soft; the Willy Gisselbrecht 2009 is soft and round, and is sure to appeal to Pinot Grigio drinkers. Sylvaner is a somewhat forgotten grape that tends to be a bit on the neutral side, but the Domaine Weinbach, biodynamically produced 2009 is spectacular, with lemongrass, delicate herbal and green apple flavors and a tart, refreshing, mineral-accented flavor that would complement to perfection our special Grilled Trout Choucroute Garnie dish we are featuring this month. Riesling holds a special place in the pantheon of Alsace grapes. Planted in about 20% of the acreage, the same proportion as it is in Germany, it’s the grape of choice to grow in whichever vineyard it will ripen. Alsace tends to produce the wine in a bone dry style. It’s the classic alternative for a Sauvignon Blanc drinker who wants to branch out, although the style is always gentler. Domaine Zind-Humbrecht, whose winemaker Olivier Humbrecht is France’s only Master of Wine producing wine today, is among the finest producers in the world. Biodynamically grown, the Gueberschwihr village Riesling 2007 is very tart and minerally, with a lingering citrus finish. The Clos Windsbuhl 2006, from a small 13 acre walled ancient vineyard in the town of Hunawihr, shows classic smoky “petrol” and earthy scents, along with very focused and precise tart, crisp apple fruit flavors.

One of the best features of our month long focus is a tasting flight we’re offering where you can enjoy a 2 ounce comparison of the Zind-Humbrecht Guebershwihr Riesling, the benchmark Trimbach Pinot Gris, and the exotically scented Rolly Gassmann Gewurztraminer. All of these wines are intriguing accompaniments to a multitude of fish dishes, with their dry earthy essences, fruit aromas and lingering flavors. I invite you to visit our restaurants in June and try them!

Sandy Block